| Why Go | | | | upper story of a dive grocery store, Local Color |
| Somewhere out there exists the real Caribbean- A | | | | specializes in tropical inspired women's clothing and |
| hidden land pleasantly lacking foreign owned | | | | basic island souvenirs. Noah's Arkade, adjacent to the |
| all-inclusive resorts that gate guests in and keep the | | | | Frangipani, also sells an excellent collection of |
| island out. On this island expats, sailors, guests and | | | | homemade crafts, postcards, antique replica maps and |
| locals merge into a unique blend of camaraderie | | | | clothing. For local books, along with a good selection of |
| shared over cold beers while serenaded by the | | | | mass-paperback fictions for beach reading, the Bequia |
| rhythms of reggae and steel drums. Here one falls | | | | Bookshop is your place. |
| asleep to the cry of the neighbor's pet goat and | | | | Historically, Port Elizabeth was a place of boat building. |
| wakes up to the alarm of the resident rooster. This | | | | However, as the carriages of the sea transformed |
| secret land, although hard to get to, is well worth the | | | | from wood to steel, the town adapted by taking the |
| visit, or perhaps even an extended stay. Whether you | | | | same skills and craftsmanship and applying them to |
| fly, sail or swim, in order to meet the real Caribbean | | | | building model boats. Throughout the streets of Bequia |
| face to face one must get themselves to Bequia, the | | | | small boat building shops can be found. Here visitors |
| crown jewel of St. Vincent and the Grenadines. | | | | can both buy model boats, some costing as much as |
| | | | a real boat, but also watch the artist practice their |
| The island, only nine miles south of St. Vincent (known | | | | time-honed trade. The best places to catch boat |
| as the "Mainland" to locals) was first settled by the | | | | building in action are Withfield Sails, Mauvin's and |
| Arwak people. The Arwarks were eventually | | | | Sargeant Bothers', all located on the far end of Port |
| eliminated by the Caribs, a warlike race who took over | | | | Elizabeth. |
| the island and named it "Becouya", meaning "Island of | | | | One cannot be a traveler without taking the time to |
| Clouds". | | | | visit the town's local market. Bequia is no exception to |
| The long period of European colonization began in | | | | this golden rule of travel. Unlike other international |
| 1664 when the French claimed Bequia, although | | | | farmer's markets, the farmer's market in Bequia is |
| permanent settlements were not established until 1719. | | | | known as the Rasta Market. It is held daily in a |
| Between 1763 and 1783, the English and French flip | | | | government-founded structure given to the local |
| flopped control of the Grenadine islands until the | | | | Rastafarians to sell their produce of pineapple, passion |
| Treaty of Versailles gave ultimate control to England. | | | | fruits, mangos and guava. The market is open 7am to |
| Under English rule, agriculture, particularly sugar, was | | | | 6pm Monday through Saturday and from 7 am to 4 |
| promoted throughout the island. When the sugar trade | | | | pm on Sundays. |
| declined, the people of Bequia turned towards the sea | | | | Other Notable Sites |
| and began a culture of fishing, whaling and boat building. | | | | Hamilton Fort, located on the far side of Admiralty Bay, |
| The whaling industry attracted Scots and even today | | | | is a colonial style 18th century fort guarded by |
| their lingering influence is felt. Because whaling is | | | | sea-worn cannons. It provides a scenic and quiet place |
| considered an indigenous tradition, the country is | | | | for an afternoon picnic retreat. Both Cinnamon Garden |
| allowed to catch two whales per year under | | | | and Mount Pleasant offer shade and secluded |
| international treaty. | | | | gardens with panoramic, natural views. Paget Farm, a |
| In 1979 St. Vincent and the Grenadines attained | | | | small fishing community and home to the lovely |
| independence but remained part of the British | | | | Banana Patch Studio, is another worthwhile destination. |
| Commonwealth. Due to its off-the-beaten-path | | | | Best Unusual Attraction: Moonhole |
| location, Bequia, and the country as a whole, has | | | | A magical, if not eerie, mix of Frank Lloyd Wright's |
| focused on local, authentically Caribbean tourism that | | | | taste for the natural and Gaudi's aptitude for the |
| appeals to yachters and adventure travelers. In a large | | | | abstract, Moonhole is a collection of over twenty |
| part, the lack of mass-tourism is a direct result of the | | | | free-form homes melting from the rocky crags of the |
| stringent policies of beloved Prime Minister J.F. Mitchell, | | | | island's rugged sea cliffs. The original settlement was |
| who once said: | | | | built by Tom Johnston, an American architect and |
| "The tourist dollar alone, unrestricted, is not worth the | | | | developer. The concept was to create homes that |
| devastation of my people. A country where people | | | | were purely natural and thus are built without windows |
| have lost their soul is no longer worth visiting. We will | | | | or doors. The entire place is part of nature, with tree |
| encourage only small numbers of visitors whose idea | | | | branches snaking their way through bedrooms and |
| of a holiday is not heaven or paradise, but participation | | | | lizards scampering across mud-packed kitchen floors. |
| in a different experience. We shall try to avoid the fate | | | | None of the walls or ceilings are even close to being |
| of some of our Caribbean neighbors who have ridden | | | | conventional as all are curving or sloping in a way that |
| the tiger of tourism only to wind up being devoured by | | | | is reminiscent of the eroding mud of the cliff's the |
| it. Large super-luxury hotels with imported | | | | homes are built from. |
| management, materials, and values bring false | | | | Today about half of these unique treasures have |
| prosperity with the negative side effects of soaring | | | | been restored and serve as a resort, of sorts. There is |
| land prices that kill agriculture, polluted beaches, traffic | | | | no electricity, but lamps are provided and some have |
| jams, high rise construction that ravages hillsides and | | | | solar panels. All showers are cold. Tours are available |
| scalds the eyeballs - the very problems that the | | | | but must be booked in advance by calling 458-3068. |
| visitors want to forget." | | | | Out and About: Sailing to the Tobago Cays |
| When to Go | | | | As the Grenadines have historically been reserved for |
| Although Bequia's tropical climate makes it an ideal | | | | those of the sailing type, one cannot pass up an |
| year-round destination, the best time to go is during the | | | | opportunity to see the islands from aboard a classic |
| dry months. The dry season runs from approximately | | | | Caribbean schooner. The Friendship Rose, a wooden |
| January to May and the rainy season from June | | | | ship built in Bequia's Friendship Bay, offers daily sailing |
| through December, with July being the wettest. From | | | | excursions departing from Admiralty Bay. Launched in |
| September to November hurricanes are always a | | | | 1967, The Friendship Rose was originally commissioned |
| potentially dangerous occurrence. | | | | to carry fertilizer between the islands, before becoming |
| How to Get There | | | | the Grenadines official mail boat and later serving as |
| This remote island is reached by air or sea. Flights can | | | | the ferry between Bequia and St. Vincent. Today its |
| be booked directly into Bequia's small, J.F. Mitchell | | | | sole responsibility is to usher tourist to and from Bequia |
| airport via Barbados on LIAT, Mustique Air, SVG Air or | | | | and such romantic Grenadine destinations as Mustique, |
| TIA. The more common route is to fly into St. Vincent | | | | Caanouan and the Tobago Cays. |
| and then ferry to Bequia's Admiralty Bay. Ferries run a | | | | If there is only time for one sailing excursion, then it |
| half a dozen times a day and take approximately one | | | | must be to the reef-ringed and white sand swept |
| hour, dock to dock. | | | | Tobago Cays. The collection of four uninhabited and |
| By far the most popular mode of transportation is via | | | | completely natural islands that comprise the National |
| private yacht. Long a yachties paradise, Admiralty Bay | | | | Maritime Park is the perfect place to spend a |
| serves as a watery parking lot for these sometimes | | | | water-themed adventure. Once here you can spend |
| luxurious carriers of both the rich and famous and | | | | their day exploring the underwater treasures of |
| those who just enjoy taking to the sea. Customs is | | | | Horseshoe Reef, where the movie Pirates of the |
| located directly opposite the ferry dock in Port | | | | Caribbean was filmed, or enjoy a relaxing rest on one |
| Elizabeth. | | | | of the numerous desert island beaches. |
| Getting Around | | | | Regardless of how you spend your day, nothing beats |
| Being only a mere seven square miles in size, the | | | | swaying in the canvass Crew hammocks strung |
| entire island can be taken in with a leisurely stroll. Other | | | | between the ship's towering wooden masts, digesting |
| options include dollar buses, taxis (pick-up trucks with | | | | your gourmet lunch and enjoying the collision of the |
| canvass awnings over the cabs) and water taxis for | | | | pure blue sky with a blue tie-dyed sea. This is the |
| beach hopping. Taxis can be picked up at The Almond | | | | essence of the Grenadines' splendor. |
| Tree in central Port Elizabeth, which is literally just an | | | | Other Island Activities and Entertainment |
| almond tree where the taxi drivers sit in the shade and | | | | Bequia is blessed with coral reefs and spectacular |
| wait for business. Fares should be negotiated prior to | | | | diving and snorkeling spots. Several outfitters are |
| the trip. | | | | based on the Belmont Walkway, with the best being |
| Best Attractions | | | | Bequia Dive Adventures and Dive Bequia. |
| Bequia is not a destination full of marquee attractions | | | | If Bequia seems laid back and tranquil during the day, it |
| since the real attraction here is its laid back local | | | | transforms itself into an all-island beach party by night. |
| tempo. In fact, a popular answer to the question of | | | | On any given night of the week there is live music |
| "What's there to do?" is a simple, "Nothing", which is | | | | under the stars playing somewhere, all you have to do |
| exactly the beauty of the island. Be sure to pack lots | | | | is follow your ears. The biggest party on the island is |
| of paperbacks, crosswords and playing cards. | | | | the weekly Thursday Night Jump Up at the Frangipani. |
| However, when you're not busy "doing nothing", here's | | | | Starting with a three course dinner of char-boiled |
| some things to occupy your free time: | | | | steaks, shrimp, pastas, tropical fruits and the most |
| Beaches | | | | delectable deserts in the Caribbean, this all night party |
| Bequia's mountainous terrain blesses it with several | | | | quickly becomes a mass of drinking and dancing to |
| secluded harbors lined with long stretches of peaceful | | | | steel drum music on the soft sands of the dance floor. |
| sands. All beaches are public, but its rare you'll see | | | | Other popular places to catch music include The |
| more than a handful of people at any given time. The | | | | Pirates Table (784-458-3900), The Whaleboner and |
| closest beach to Port Elizabeth is Princess Margaret | | | | L'Auberge des Grenadines (784-458-3201). |
| Beach. The beach is lined by a tropical forest of shady | | | | Special Events |
| palms and overlooks the turquoise waters of | | | | Bequia would not be a Caribbean island if it didn't have |
| Admiralty Bay and its mooring of bobbing yachts. | | | | its own slew of action packed festivals. Each year |
| Princess Margaret is assessable by foot; just follow | | | | things get kicked off right with the Old Year's Night |
| the Belmont Walkway. | | | | party, full of music, dancing, food, and fireworks being |
| Lower Bay Beach, located around the corner from | | | | shot off from the yachts and ferries. Every Easter |
| Princess Margaret, is also accessible by a footpath | | | | Bequia plays host to the Bequia Easter Regatta, with |
| located at the far end of Princess Margaret Beach. | | | | yacht races in the day, cultural events during the |
| Lower Bay is a white sand beach with tranquil waters | | | | evening, and partying all night. |
| perfect for snorkeling and swimming. Along its rocky | | | | Best Eats |
| tips, sea turtles and octopuses abound. The village | | | | For upscale gourmet dining under the stars, there's no |
| located along the main road has several options for | | | | better place than the Frangipani. Expect to feast from |
| food and drinks. Dawn's Beach Café is a | | | | a diverse menu of chicken, steaks, seafood and plenty |
| popular place for sandwiches and beers whereas | | | | of pastas, rice, citrus fruits and fresh produce to |
| Keegans is known for its evening beachside | | | | accompany your main course. Don't forget to save |
| barbeques. | | | | room for dessert: lime meringue and French silk pie, |
| Friendship Bay plays hosts to the third of the island's | | | | chocolate mousse and creamy cakes will tantalize |
| accessible beaches and is best reached via taxi. | | | | your sweet tooth. The banana pancakes at breakfast |
| Located on the windward side of the island, facing the | | | | are a Bequian must. |
| Atlantic, the waters here tend to be less clear and | | | | Mac's Pizza cooks up the best lobster pizza, a Bequia |
| rougher. However, the pristine scenery of | | | | original, on their brick ovens. Surprisingly, curry is a |
| mist-shrouded islands floating along the horizon, its | | | | popular spice on the island (785-458-3474). For a |
| isolation and lack of boats blocking the view easily | | | | fusion of the best of Indian food with a splash of the |
| make up for any shortcomings. Further, the | | | | Caribbean, try the chicken curry garnished with mango |
| complimentary beach chairs are worth the trip | | | | salsa and Nan at the Gingerbread (784-458-3800). |
| themselves. The Moskito Bar, an open-terraced | | | | For ethnic eats, the Plantation House Restaurant is |
| beachside bar and restaurant, mixes up a wide array | | | | owned and operated by Italians and thus serve up the |
| of tempting tropical drinks which can be enjoyed either | | | | best pasta dishes this side of Italy. For Mexican fare, |
| on the sand or in a bar side swing. Live bands often | | | | Tommy Cantina on the Belmont side of Port Elizabeth |
| play well into the night. | | | | is an excellent choice for spicy fish tacos (and their |
| To Spring and Sea Turtles | | | | margarita menu is not to be missed). |
| Bequia's number one bonafide tourist attraction is the | | | | Where to Sleep |
| unique Oldhegg Turtle Sanctuary, located in the remote | | | | The Gingerbread Hotel, located on Admiralty Bay along |
| Industry Bay region. The most rewarding way to reach | | | | the seaside Belmont Walkway, an architecturally |
| the site is to walk there and take a taxi back. The | | | | impressive hotel, is perfect for those looking for simple |
| walk, which can be steep and several hours long, will | | | | seclusion yet still staying close to the central action of |
| give you a true perspective of the island. | | | | the island. The hotel is built in the popular gingerbread |
| Begin by taking a right at the road running next to the | | | | tradition found throughout the island, with intricate hand |
| New York Bar in Port Elizabeth. At first the hike is | | | | cut fretwork enhancing the façade of the dining |
| nothing but an unimpressive trek straight up the hillside. | | | | rooms and guest rooms. Both luxury and budget |
| However, once you reach the crest be sure to turn | | | | rooms are available. |
| around for a panoramic view of Admiralty Bay. | | | | On Bequia's windward side, at the end of a narrow, |
| Continue down the hill, past the foul smelling island | | | | bumpy road, a 10-minute drive south of Port, The |
| landfill, and into the remote community known as | | | | Friendship Bay Resort sparkles with a bright, new |
| Spring. Here you will pass Spring Pottery, located in the | | | | personality thanks to its resourceful Swedish proprietor. |
| ruin of an old sugar plantation. The shop sells | | | | This cheery and brightly colored sea cliff hotel is |
| handmade, local crafts and artwork, along with being | | | | tastefully set into its natural surroundings and provides |
| an operating pottery kiln open for tours. Up the hill from | | | | all guest stellar Caribbean views. The property consists |
| here is Spring on Bequia, a boutique hotel famous for | | | | of the main building atop a hill, a cluster of cottages |
| both its views and Sunday afternoon curry buffets. | | | | below, and a thatched bar and restaurant facing two |
| As you continue on you will pass the desolate Spring | | | | kilometers of windswept beach (784-458-3222). |
| Bay, with its towering palm trees and old stone | | | | Amid a tangle of tropical foliage, in town midway along |
| aqueducts. From here it is back up the hill, at the top of | | | | the busy waterfront promenade, the small, classic |
| which you are greeted by past-the-horizon views of | | | | West Indies-styled Frangipani is steeped in local history. |
| the Grenadine islands and gently seductive Caribbean | | | | Once home to Prime Minister Sir James Mitchell and |
| Sea. From this vantage point you also can get a good | | | | still owned by his family, this appealing property centers |
| feel of the shape and sounds of Bequia. | | | | on a building that resembles a New England whaler's |
| At the foot of the hill is Industry Bay, home of the | | | | home with its cedar shake and pale blue shutters. Not |
| oldest home on the island, which is still locally owned. | | | | only is "The Frangi" one of the most popular hangouts |
| From the Bay it is just a short walk to the humble | | | | for travelers, it is also highly regarded as the place to |
| Oldhegg Turtle Sanctuary. Founded by former sailor, | | | | be by the locals, giving it a uniquely blended, homey |
| Orton "Brother" King, the sanctuary nurses and breeds | | | | personality. The cabanas on the hill are luxurious suites, |
| hawksbill and leatherback sea turtles in an effort to | | | | but the five simple guest rooms on the second floor of |
| replenish the Southern Caribbean's rapidly disappearing | | | | the main house are a steal. |
| turtle population. Mr. King started the project when he | | | | The peach-color colonial house with pastel blue |
| was camping on the beach now located adjacent to | | | | accents, huge verandas on three sides, and a |
| the site. While sleeping under the stars he was | | | | palm-studded lawn of a former Caribbean plantation is |
| awakened by the unsettling feeling that someone was | | | | now under Italian management as the Plantation House |
| throwing sand at him. As he cautiously came out of his | | | | Hotel. The hotel sprawls along the oceanside Belmont |
| slumber he saw at his feet a mother sea turtle laying | | | | Walkway and is lined with the plantation's original stone |
| her eggs. Fascinated by this creature, he built his home | | | | fence. Guests have easy access to Port Elizabeth's |
| here so he would be around to watch the turtles | | | | shops and restaurants and fine views of the bustling |
| hatch. Inspired by this miracle of nature, Mr. King went | | | | harbor. |
| on to start the sanctuary program and to date has | | | | Perched on a hill on the windward side of the island, |
| raised and released thousands throughout the | | | | Spring on Bequia overlooks Spring Bay from the ruins |
| surrounding islands. Admission is a $20.00EC donation. | | | | of a 200-year-old sugar mill set among coco palms |
| Port Elizabeth | | | | and a tropical pasture populated by cows, sheep and |
| Port Elizabeth is the only real "city" on the island. | | | | large land crabs. This small, isolated, award-winning yet |
| However, a place that has two streets, efficiently | | | | understated property does not focus on the beach. |
| named Front Street and Back Street, can hardly be | | | | Rather, it is an ideal place for those seeking peace, |
| considered a city. Yet it is here where all of the island's | | | | quiet, and delicious West Indian food in informal, |
| energy converges. Besides being the starting point for | | | | aesthetically pleasing surroundings. |
| the hotel and restaurant lined Belmont Walkway, the | | | | For Your Safety |
| city proper has its fair share of attractions. At the very | | | | Bequia takes pride in its relatively crime-free existence. |
| least, a stroll down harbor lined Front Street and back | | | | Although whiffs of marijuana can be smelled regularly, |
| on neighborly Back Street gives you a glimpse of | | | | the sale of it is rather undercover. The greatest risks |
| day-to-day Bequian life. | | | | to your safety and well-being are from the manchineel |
| Along the way, be sure to poke your head into one of | | | | trees located along the beaches. If touched they may |
| the handful of churches along the road. Often times all | | | | cause an aggravating skin rash. At the time of writing |
| you have to do to find them is listen for the energetic | | | | there were several reports of armed robbery |
| and beautiful gospel signing radiating from their walls. | | | | occurring along the wooded paths leading to Princess |
| The main draw of Port Elizabeth is its boutique craft, | | | | Margaret Beach and Lower Bay Beach. It is best to |
| clothing, art and grocery shops. For a selection of | | | | use precaution and walk in groups or take a water |
| colorful local crafts and clothing, start at Local Color. | | | | taxi. At the very least, ask your hotel on the status of |
| Located on the Belmont side of Port Elizabeth in the | | | | the trails. |