Malaysia's Kellie's Castle is an Unexpected Treat

Germany is known for its majestic fairytale castlesthese tunnels connects to the Hindu temple some
while France has more châteaux than any countrydistance away from the main house.
could ever reasonably need. Comparatively, MalaysiaOn the second floor, Smith planned to build an indoor
lags some way behind.tennis court – an ambitious project even by
However, there is one, standing alone at the top of atoday’s standards. On the highest floor, there is a
little hill, overlooking the Kinta River, around 20 minutesrooftop courtyard for parties. This castle was to be
away from Ipoh.the hub for entertaining wealthy colonial planters who
Named Kellie’s Castle the huge home is well worthhad settled in Malaya and was so unique that it was
a visit. – both for its history and for curiosity’seven mentioned in the London Financier newspaper on
sake. It’s also a fascinating insight into one15 September 1911.
man’s dream, the man after whom the folly isIn the end, Kellas House, later known as Kellie’s
named…Castle or even Kellie’s Folly to some, was never
William Kellie Smith was from the village of Kellas incompleted. William Kellie Smith himself died of
Scotland. In 1890, at the age of 20, he arrived in thepneumonia during a short trip to Portugal in 1926, a trip
then undeveloped Malaya where, he met an estatehe was making to collect his prized elevator from the
owner called Alma Baker, who had won concessionsmanufacturer. His heartbroken wife decided to pack
from the state government to clear 360 hectares ofup and return home to Scotland selling the estate and
forests in Perak.Kellie’s Castle to a British company called Harrisons
With the substantial profits made from his businessand Crosfield.
venture with Alma Baker, William started plantingToday, as you approach the castle, you can’t help
rubber trees and dabbled in the tin mining industry. Inbut notice the Victorian style influence, such as the red
time, he became the owner of Kinta Kellas Estate andbrick walls rising five storeys high. It is no wonder that
the Kinta Kellas Tin Dredging Company.the castle was supposed to come with a lift.
Now with his fortune made, he returned home toWalking the halls I was fascinated to see how William
marry his Scottish sweetheart, Agnes, and brought herhad integrated the different types of architectural
over to Malaysia in 1903. The following year, the coupledesign. There’s definitely European influences, such
was blessed with a daughter whom they namedas large linen storage room, a spacious wine cellar, the
Helen.square bedrooms and the tennis court! Then, a world
As pleased as he was, William Smith desperatelyaway from Europe, you have lovely window frames in
wanted a son and heir to take over his empire in theMoorish designs which sit alongside local Islamic
Malay Isles. It was a dream that would take until 1915touches.
to realise, when Agnes gave birth to baby Anthony.The other thing that strikes you is the space. At 1,200
To celebrate Anthony’s birth, William decided tosq ft, William’s master bedroom is bigger than most
expand on his mansion – but a simple extensionaverage apartments nowadays, but security was
wasn’t quite what he had in mind. Instead, Williamobviously a worry – William included an escape
started planning for a huge castle which he intended toroute that leads out to his beautiful garden.
call Kellas House, after his hometown in Scotland.It’s unusual that a man who took the idea of his
Because of his fascination with the Hindu religion andhome being his castle right to the very limit wouldn’t
Indian culture, William’s aim was for the house tofeel entirely secure there. Looking at the structure as
share similar architecture to those of Madras, with allan outsider I felt the castle looked just as it should –
its bricks and tiles imported from India. He evensolid and secure enough to protect the people inside.
employed a big group of Indian labourers to keep theThere aren’t even any glass windows on the
Kellas House authentically Indian.ground floor, instead William designed small holes at the
But it was not only the incredible cost of importingtop of the walls to create some natural ventilation.
material and labourers from abroad that made theI’d love to be able to ask him what it was he
house so fascinating to locals and travellers alike – itfeared. Maybe one day I will – it’s said that
was the sheer scale of William’s ambition. ForWilliam haunts the castle to this day, and I certainly
example, his was to be the first building in Malaya tointend to go back. Maybe we’ll bump into each
have an elevator. There were also two tunnelsother.
designed to run under the river nearby – one of