The Long and Illustrious History of Cotton Candy

Cotton candy - what would childhood be without it? It'sstrands, Patton used a flat disk or plate heated from
sticky, sweet airiness brings memories of summerunderneath with a gas fire to melt the sugar. He then
days spent under the circus tent, or meanderingspun the candy threads upwards with a fork. He
through the country fair's exhibits. Let's not forgetunveiled his machine at Ringley Brothers circus, and
nights sent on the carnival's Ferris wheel, cotton candyfound that he too, had a hit on his hands. Cotton candy
in one hand while the other grips the car's bar for dearand the circus have been synonymous ever since.
life.Lastly, Joseph Lascaux received his patent much later
Cotton candy goes back a long way, though, from itsthan the other three, in 1921. A dentist in New Orleans,
appearance at fairs and carnivals. It wasn't the light,Louisiana, he introduced the sweet treat to his patients.
airy, wispy stuff we know today, but spun sugar was(Perhaps the most ingenious way to ensure his
all the rage in the days of knights and their fairbusiness would continue?) While his machine also used
damsels. Since sugar was rare and expensive, it wascentrifugal force and electricity, it's what's in the name
a treat reserved only for the very rich, so few folksthat counts. His patent was for a "cotton candy"
ever got to experience it. Medieval cooks first spunproducing device. New Orleans citizens claim Lascaux
sugar on forks to create webs and strands to"invented" the name "cotton candy," the name that
decorate cakes and other sweets. Confectionersstuck in the United States. Perhaps the old dentist was
would make castles and dragons and fairy taleonto something, after all.
creatures from it to the delight of the rich and famousIn 1949, the "modern" cotton candy machine came into
of the day. Lords and ladies would marvel over thebeing, with a patent granted to Gold Medal Products. It
spun sugar creations, while the lowly servants couldhad a spring loaded base, and was much more
only look on with longing.dependable. Most cotton candy makers today are
Later, cookbooks shared the techniques involved inmere improvements of the Gold Medal machine.
spinning sugar. Most involved swirling a fork into theAround 1950, cotton candy went upscale. The
sticky cooked sugary syrup and drawing it out at justprestigious Four Seasons Hotel in New York City
the right time to create the right thickness of sugaradded it to their menu for special occasion dinners like
thread. These threads were then spun or woundbirthdays and anniversaries. The Manhattan version of
around an upturned bowl. In the eighteenth and earlythe sweet sticky treat is served in a martini glass, and
nineteenth centuries, spun sugar was again the rage incan come color coordinated to the guest. Other fancy
Europe, with confectioners creating sugar Easter eggseateries around the country, inspired by Four Seasons,
and covering other candies such as chocolate inno doubt, also offer cotton candy on their dessert
intricate webs of spun sugar. This was pretty muchmenus, too.
how cotton candy (called spun sugar) existed until theSometime in the 1970's cotton candy became
late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries.mass-produced with the advent of a machine that
No one can really say for sure who "invented" cottonmelts the sugar, spins it into floss and bags it. Now,
candy as we know it today. Four separate individuals -cotton candy can be purchased in nearly every
Thomas Patton, Josef Delarose Lascaux, John C.grocery store, without a circus tent or carnival midway
Wharton, and William Morrison - all had a hand in it, itin sight.
would seem.New Orleans may lay claim to the name cotton candy,
In 1899, John Wharton and William Morrison werebut in other countries, the confection goes by other
granted a patent for a machine that melted and spunnames. In Australia, it is still known as fairy floss, the
the sugar. The pair of Nashville, TN candy makers thenname given it way back in 1904 at the World's Fair.
got really creative. They introduced their "fairy floss"Great Britain's children call it candy floss. In France, it is
and its electronic maker at the Louisiana PurchaseBarbe a papa, meaning "Papa's beard." In India and
Exhibition, otherwise known as the St. Louis World'sGreece, you ask for a treat of "old lady's hair."
Fair, in 1904, and the tradition of cotton candy and fairsWhether you ask for spun sugar, cotton candy, fairy
was born. They sold nearly 69,000 boxes of the stufffloss or old lady's hair, the simple sweet treat of
at 25 cents each. It was one of the Fair's mostmelted sugar, with a bit of food coloring added in, is till
expensive treats, earning the two men over $17,000,as popular today as it was way back in the days of
nearly half a million dollars in today's world.lords and ladies. Loyal customers can even purchase
A year after Wharton and Morrison received theirtheir own "residential" cotton candy machines, ensuring
machine's patent, William Patton was awarded his ownthat the sticky goodness can be enjoyed year round
patent for a different candy floss machine. Whileat home. And you don't need a circus tent, a martini
Morrison and Wharton used centrifugal force to spinglass or even a fork to do so!
the melted sugar through small holes to form the